So many issues here --   To frequency a shaft  and then correctly compare it to another reading the following things must be the same.  Use the same frequency machine as the manufacturer does.  Freq it with the shaft blank - no head and no grip. And the length of shaft must be the same.
  also, just because the shaft was extended or it is longer DOES NOT change how the tip of the shaft performs.  So if the player was fit into an S300 he should stay with that no matter the length. If you try to off set the longer length ( which probably fits the player ) with an X1 or whatever then you have violated the fitting process.
   Secondly -- there a ton of "garage club repair" guys out there that have bought a cheap frequency machine.  They yell loudly about the need to get your clubs frequency analyzed by them.  Then they use their cheap machine and freq the shaft with the grip and head still on the club.  Then they begin to "yell" about how the major manufacturer's do not freq their shafts correctly..... And "oh by the way. give me $250 and I will do it for you correctly!"  These guys are not fitters.  They might be a club repair guy but they are not fitters most of the time.  They are only trying to get in your pocket and justify their existence while trying to make a fitter or club manufacturer like Titliest look bad.
  To properly freq shafts you must use the same exact frequency machine, the same clamp size... and the shaft length must be the same. Period.
    Soooo, do no spend the $250 with this guy.  Your original shaft is probably just fine, plus I'm sure that extra length is a big factor in a proper fitting for you.

steve ball
PGA Master Professional
OKC   ballgolf.com

I have always set up and built my clubs having a variety of top tools from the industry (and I play a longer shafted club like yourself).  I agree with Steve's points...all are on the mark.  

PS --- whenever any of you out there run into these so called " fitting experts" with a frequency machine in their garage or profess the importance of puring the shafts.... ask them this.  " Would you please show me your testing and research results to verify how this variable ( frequency, puring... or whatever....) affects ball flight"  Demand to see their testing to validate their claims.  Probably a 100% chance they have nothing to back them up.  
   If you were fit by a Titleist fitter they have the information that Titleist has supplied them from dozens of test results varifying the Titleist fitting methodology.  Something as simple as " an incorrect lie angle of 2* will make the ball be 20' off line with a 6 iron"  There are many tests like that in their fitting manual.  In addition there are dozens of graphs and charts describing ball flight and designating the ideal launch and spin numbers that work best for players of all different ball speeds. They have spent millions of dollars and have the best people in the business doing these tests.  With the main reason being to educate their fitters by sharing this information so that they can give you, the customer the best fitting experience available.  Honest, factual information. And they have been doing this for over 20 years now.
   So please share this with anyone you know that plays golf.  Tell them to consider the source of all of these so called club fitters that try to discredit the experts in the business only for the sake of making a buck.  
  Any questions?  Give me a call any time -- 405-842-2626.

steve ball
OKC  ballgolf.com 

Who said this was some dude in a garage.  This guy is a PGA professional.  I was fitted twice to make sure the fit was correct, 2 data points.  Once at PGA superstore in Myrtle Beach and once at the proshop where i ordered the AP1's from.

Everything i've read suggests that a longer shaft will decrease the stiffness, maybe not at the tip but the tip is only one part of the system.

I guess I'm just disappointed because from day one i have hit these clubs a mile in the air.  Where i play is extremely windy in the spring and fall.  Sorry if anyone is ticked off...to be honest i should be the one ticked off either way i didn't get what i payed for.

OK, what is the way Titleist would check frequency on a club?  Or better yet what should a stiff flex on a NSpro105T be for a standard length club?  What would it be for a +2" 5 iron?

Apparently the fit is not correct. If you ordered stiff 2 inches long and you got stiff 2 inches long, then it is not the manufacturer, it is the fit was incorrect.

The pro told you 2 inches long in stiff, then the pro told you that you needed to order 3X if you want it to be stiff at 2 inches long.......apparently the fit was wrong.

Based on my swing speed stiff flex was needed, based on me hitting t he ball on the toe and for comfort the length was needed.  At this point it's obvious i didn't get what i wanted, and in part it's my fault.  I'm no expert, i assume that the manufacturer and fitter would make the right call.  That being said let's move forward.

my previous post had 2 questions for the Titleist staff.  What is the frequency of a standard 5 iron with the NS105 stiff shaft and can someone freq it +2"?

Steve B,  You asked what my handicap was, 6.4index, at home i'm a 7.  I know i can be better, my goal is scratch before it's too late, with age and kids...  Work around the greens is a must, but hitting greens in regulation cost me some skin money this year.  I don't know about where you live but this was a very windy year here, everyone tells me my ball flight is too high.  I hit some friends clubs and the weight is what i notice the most, the ball flight was better too, but other peoples clubs are weird.  It seems like i could get in less trouble with a lower ball flight.  I don't know.  It's accuracy and ball flight that i'm interested in and reshafting seems to address both. 

One thing is for sure the flex on my current shafts is wrong...  I have to do something during the off season...and going to a grass, real fitting facility is not possible without travel.

good info there.... Lets take the shaft concerns out of the mix for awhile. That is the least of my concern here.

the fact you said there were toe hits and therefore you needed longer length possibley tells me something.  A good chance the toe hits could be from a bit of a steep, slightly over the top swing  path.  This swing path could be a big cause of the higher shots especially if they are spinning alot.  I have seen alot of fitting recs be longer length shaft to help you hit it more in the center of the face. When in fact all it does is make you address the ball further away from the ball, make the same swing and you still hit it on the toe.  ( Please remember, I am sort of flying in the dark here being unable to see any shots...)

What does your shot shape look like? Draws or fades when you are playing good?  And what does the shape of the shot look like when it is going really high?  And if you want to get a video of your swing and send it to my email - that would help a bit here.  my email is   ballgolf@mac.com

steve
PS -- I most likely have to be in the Southeast this fall and winter doing some training for Titleist. If we get lucky I may get within driving distance of MB....    Your question about where I live and windy condtiions -- Oklahoma, lots of wind , deal with it every single day I do a fitting and my range goes directly into it!! 

"I'm no expert, i assume that the manufacturer and fitter would make the right call."

It still isn't the manufacturers fault, by his own admittance it is your pros fault, he told you stiff but should have said 3X.

The manufacturer did not do your fitting, all they have to go by is the order, it is up to the fitter to get it right.

If the manufacturer was to assume you needed something other than ordered, it would cost them a fortune in remakes.

Here's what makes your "fitter" suspect, first 2 inches long 2* upright, that's always suspect.

Next, you hit the ball too high and they put you in AP1's at standard loft.

Next he said you needed 3X to be the same as stiff after adding 2 inches, you add the 2 inches the shaft characteristics of stiff are still there, yes it may feel a little softer because the bend point is farther from your hands, but the bend point being farther from your hands won't change the stiff characteristic of the shaft.

As Steve said, the number 1 cause of hitting the ball too high is how you swing, your PGA Pro knows this, but he is going to fix it by equipment??????

Ok he starts with AP1, a high hitting high spin head.....wrong

Now the shaft

lightweight, which makes the shaft feel softer and does cause slightly higher trajectory

low/mid bend point which also causes slightly higher trajectory and a little more spin which will raise the overall height of the shot.

Higher torque which will also cause higher trajectory.

from titleist.com

Even hitting off the lie board can give an erroneous fitting. The marks indicated I would have had to bend a 9 iron to 66 degrees one time! Considering I hit a 9 iron dead straight with a 64.5 deg lie angle... I brought in a "reference" 9 iron when I had my 981s fit and when both hit perfectly straight, the scuff marks on the lie tape are centered 1 tick mark toward the toe. In regards to the 2* upright and 2" long.... the individual would be darn near 7 feet tall! I'm 6'1" and wtf of 35.5. My fit is Eye 2 yellow dot and Titleist 1/2 deg upright (which pretty closely matches yellow dot) with standard length. I have a set of Eye 2 yellow dot 6-PW and DCI 981 4-GW and hit both sets dead straight.

I do have a steep swing and have a slight tendency to come over the top.  I am 6'8" tall and have a pretty hard swing.  For instance i hit a 6 iron ~200yds.   My normal shot shape when i'm playing great is a slight draw, 8 iron and down i hit dead straight.  I tend to miss with a pull hook (over the top).  Short irons just launch up off of the tee sometimes.  My longer irons tend to start off looking nice but climb especially into the wind.

Lou, I chose the AP1 because i couldn't afford the clubs i really wanted at the time.  Plus i was a 14 handicapper then and never had a fitted set of clubs so i was happy for something new and "fitted". 

The pro i'm working with now seems to share some of the thoughts you guys have in that he would rather adjust the lie than lengthen the shafts, he also recommended the 3X flex to make up for the length.  At this point i'm pretty numb about what to do...

Steve,  I hope you're within driving distance, i can probably make a trip.  My family and i will be down there for Christmas, visiting the inlaws.

Stretch,  I am certain that Titleist will work with you in any way they can. but please first try the other things I mentioned - let me know how it is going.

steve

stretch -- any updates ?

Ok Stretch, Now we are getitng somewhere with your latest information.   Your swing is "slightly steep and you occassionaly come over the top"  That swing is going to cause most of these problems.  It will make the ball spin like crazy...  From the Titleist fitting manual (pg64) A 200 yard six iron is probably somewhere around 130 MPH ball speed - your launch should be within10-16* and the spin should be no more than 5500 rpm.  Now,  imagine what a 200 yard shot looks like when hit with a 29* 6 iron ( AP1 specs). Even if it didn't slice that is going to be a really high shot. Now hitting the ball high ie.. 16* will be OK in the wind IF IT DOES NOT SPIN.  But a steep swing, slightly over the top is going to spin the ball like crazy - probably in the range of 7,000+ spin and that is what causes the ball to climb so high , just like you said your long irons do. 

So here are some possible suggestions in order:
1) If you practice, take some lessons and get your swing more shallow to where you can hit a slight draw - that will knock off a bunch of spin and lower your trajectory at the same time. You might also want to work on a little more control with your iron swing - 200 yard 6 iron, 150+ PW ---- sounds good in the bar, but not a great way to play golf.  (  If you have some low back problems and/or tight hips that will make it difficult to change the swing   Here is a link to the TPI web site that shows the TPI experts in your area that could do an eval on you and prescribe a stretching program. That could make it much easier to change your swing...  )
       http://www.mytpi.com/find/listing.aspx?continent=NA&country=US&state=SC

2)  You could have the loft strengthened by 2*  - that could be worth a few hundred RPM of back spin. Remember I said earlier the head of the club would have MUCH more affect than the shaft.

3)  You could bend the lies more upright.

4) The DG shafts are much heavier than what you have now.  Heavier shafts can reduce spin a bit.  But a +2" long DG shaft is going to be really heavy - I would not do that unless you can try one out and see how it feels - .I would bet your pro was thinking that when he suggested the Nippon - I do the same thing with some of my students that want steel in very long lengths. Remember the least l affect from the shaft..... thus the reason it  is listed last

Stretch , there is lots of stuff out there you can read and a lot of it is old technology and blogs by amateurs that don't know what they are talking about.And most of the bad info involves shafts.... I do not have all the answers but I have access to alot of current information and this is my business. I do this every single day of the year and I see your situation almost daily.  Your situation is very simple - the above answers will work.

Trying not to argue here. I just want to give you some facts... 
Maybe Cathi at Team Titleist can give you the Titleist "recipe" for analyzing the shafts -- machine type, clamp size... length of shaft...Almost all the time this is attempted in the field it is not going to be the same as the club companies do it, so it becomes an apples and oranges thing.

In order of affecting ball flight --
#1 the kind of swing you make is always the biggest factor.  So, what is your handicap, your normal trajectory and shot shape?
#2  The head of club -- loft, CG location, off set, lie.... anything in the head will have much more affect than---

#3 The shaft
I am not saying the shaft is not important. It is, but it is not as much a factor as #1 and #2

Now about the fitting.  After being around for 25 years custom fitting has suddenly gotten alot of attention.  I have been fitting that long and averaging about 250 fitting per year. I am one of the original golf professionals to promote the concept of fitting. So now you have a bunch of people claiming to be a fitter and unfortunately alot of them aren't as skilled as they should be.  Just because a guy has "PGA" in his title doesn't mean he is a good fitter. And trying to get fitted at an indoor faciltiy hitting from mats into a net ...  doesn't count as a viable fitting scenario. I have been to those places and had them fit me and it was horrendous - no knowledge, brand bias.... the worst!
    You should get fitted outdoors hitting from real grass, using a launch monitor and hitting golf course balls such as a Pro V , not a range ball.  The fitter should also have the Titleist manual to refer to so you know if your launch and spin numbers are correct for your ball flight.  That is the only way to properly do it.

I just got on line to see if there was an Advanced Fitter for Titleist someplace close and there are none.  The very best situation would be to have the fitter also be a good instructor so he could tell you if you high traj is due to your swing or the club. I doubt very seriously if the shaft flex is to blame.  If you happen to be traveling anytime soon look up in the area you are going and see if you can find one of the Advanced Fitters --  outdoors, grass, Pro V's and a launch monitor...

Call me if you would like to discuss. i would be more than happy to do so.
steve ball   OKC
Senior Consultant to Titleist and Co-Founder of Titleist Custom Fitting, 1992
405-842-2626